Chapter 4
SPEAKERS
Speakers Overview:
The speakers you use will have the final say in how your system will sound.
There are many types of speakers available. A single speaker can be used to reproduce the full range of
sounds but it is not ideal. If the speaker is too large it will have problems reproducing high frequencies
which require rapid movement of the speaker. If it is too small it will have problems reproducing low
frequencies which require large amounts of air to be moved. Because a single speaker cannot reproduce all
sounds accurately multiple speakers are used each of which reproduces sound in the frequency range it was
designed for. A speaker called a tweeter reproduces high frequencies generally above 2 kHz.
Tweeters are small and lightweight so they can respond quickly. Very little
power is required for powering tweeters because they are very efficient. Woofers are the exact opposite
because they usually require large amounts of power to really move air. Woofers are meant to produce sound at
frequencies below 250 Hz and often just below 100 Hz (in the case of subwoofers). Because a woofer must move
large amounts of air they are usually large with typical sizes of 10", 12", 15" and even 18"! On the other
hand tweeters are usually very small ranging in size from 1/2" to 2" in size. Typically, tweeters larger than
1" in size cannot respond quickly enough to sound good and are too directional. In between are midrange
speakers which handle the frequencies between the woofers and tweeters. Further division can be done but is
usually unnecessary and just complicates the crossover which must separate the full audio signal into
multiple parts for each speaker.
Things to look for:
Power Handling: Just as with amplifiers, RMS or continuous power is important
here. Some manufacturers will claim very high power handling figures but they are usually for very short
peaks only. Granted music is not continuous but the continuous power handling gives you a much better
impression of how much power a speaker can really handle. For tweeters and midranges, power handling is not
as important since it does not take much power for them to play loudly. For woofers though a rough match
should be made between the woofer and the amp driving it.
Sensitivity: This is a very important spec for a speaker. It gives you an idea of how loud a speaker will
play given a certain input power. If a speaker is insensitive then it will require more power to play at the
same volume level than a speaker that is more sensitive. Figures between 85 dB and 95 dB at 1 watt RMS at 1
meter are common. If you use anything outside of this range you may have problems matching the output levels
of the speakers relative to each other. If you're going to run speakers off of a head unit then try to get
speakers with higher input sensitivities since head units typically do not have much power.
Physical Size: You must pay attention to the size of the speakers you choose. Tweeters are very small but
need to mounted where they fire nearly directly at you or they may not be heard properly. Some tweeters have
better off axis response than others. If you will not be on axis with the tweeter when you audition tweeters
in a store listen to how their sound changes as you move around them to see if they will work in your car.
Midranges should fit in the door or dash spaces provided or you will have to do some cutting or fabrication.
In general the larger the woofer the larger the enclosure required to hold it. Some woofers are better
optimized for small enclosures than others (Kicker Solobaric, JL Audio W6 for example). Make sure you have
enough room in your trunk or hatchback for the woofer. Kickpanels for midranges and tweeters or coaxials
typically offer better imaging than locations in the door however the soundstage is sometimes lower than when
you have the tweeters mounted high in the doors or on the A pillars.
How Do Speakers Work?
Moving Speaker Speakers are air pistons that move back (on the negative cycle
of the signal) and forth (on the positive cycle), creating different degrees of air pressure at different
frequencies. The amplifier (either separate or built-in your radio), produces electrical impulses that
alternate from positive and negative voltages (AC). This current reaches the voice coil inside the
speaker, creating an electro-magnet that will either be repelled, or attracted by the fixed magnet at the
bottom of the speaker. The voice coil is attached to the cone, moving it back and forth, creating
sound. The surround (rubbery circle that joins top of the cone and metal basket) and the spider
(usually yellow corrugated circle joining bottom of cone to magnet) make the cone return to its original
position.
Speaker Sensitivity, measured in dB, is how loud a speaker plays (usually 1
Watt, 1 meter). A higher Sensitivity rating means that the speaker will play louder using the same
power as a speaker with a lower rating.
The back and front parts of the speaker should be isolated from each
other. When the front of the cone is pushing air, the bottom is pulling air, creating a canceling
effect. Ideally every speaker should be in an enclosure. If you are mounting a speaker in a
big hole, make sure you build a panel to isolate the front and back of the speaker (baffle).
Imaging, Staging and Directivity
Imaging - is being able to pick certain sounds from different places.
The singer would normally be located towards the middle of the car, guitars, trumpets, and other instruments
towards the sides of the car. If you scatter speakers all around the car your imaging would be very
poor, since you would be producing the same sound at different places. If you have a system with good
imaging, the sound should seem to come from different instruments and voices, not speakers.
Staging - is the ability of a system to "fool you" into thinking that
everything (including bass) is in front of you. The sound should be similar to a stage in a concert,
where the singer would be in the front center, and the rest of the instruments and background vocalists would
be located to the left and right (but always on the front).
Good staging and imaging are not so easy to implement. It takes a lot
experimenting with speaker location and direction.
Directivity - of sound is related to frequency. At higher
frequencies it is easier to pinpoint where the sound is coming from than lower frequencies. This can be
used to our advantage in car stereo. Tweeters are the most important part of getting good
staging. They should be aimed towards the middle of the car. A way to "bring" the bass to the
front of the car is to fool our ears by overlapping frequencies played by midbases and subs, so that your
midbases actually "pull" the bass to the front, since lower bass in not too directional. You should
crossover your midbases as low as you can (without getting distortion). Then cut your subs at a bit
higher frequency (preferably 60 HZ or less). This will mix the bass coming from the front and rear,
making the bass seem to come from the front. Adding a center channel also improves staging, if it is
set up correctly.
Types of Speakers
Coaxials - Coaxial speakers (or three-ways) are two (or more) speakers
built-in the same frame. They are cheaper than separate woofer and tweeters and also easier to
install. There is no need to worry about crossovers, since they are already built-in (you might still
need to add a crossover to block bass if you are using high-power amplifiers). A disadvantage of
coaxials is the lack of flexibility. For example, if the coaxial is all the way in the kick panel, or
door panel aiming at your feet, you will not have good staging or imaging. Some manufacturers try to
compensate for this by making adjustable tweeters. You should usually consider coaxial speakers for the
back of the car, and separates for the front, unless you only have one speaker hole and don't plan to cut any
more holes in the car.
Separates - Separates consist of a tweeter and woofer, and [most of the time]
come with an external crossover. The woofer is usually mounted in the factory hole in the door or kick
panel. The tweeters can be mounted in different places. The most common place to install tweeters is
towards the top front corner of the door panel, aiming (if possible) between both front seat head
rests. Another popular location for tweeters is in the dash, either surface mounted, or in
factory dash holes. Yet another location where tweeters are commonly mounted is in the blank plastic
piece on the top front side of the doors (where the mirror is on the outside). You would have to
experiment with angle and location to achieve the best possible imaging and staging.
Horns - Horns are very good at directing sound and have high
efficiencies. Horns are usually mounted under the dash. By doing this, difference in distance
from left and right speakers are greatly reduced over conventional mounting locations. Since horns play
mids and highs, tweeters are not needed. Horns cost more than conventional speakers and require
customization. In many installations a good equalizer is required to compensate for their high
sensitivity.
Horns are not for everyone though. Many audiophiles complain of unnatural sound. It is very
hard to properly setup a set of horns.
Midbases - Midbases are usually 5, 6 or 8 inch speakers that are designed to
go lower in frequency and are part of a three way system with a mid and tweeter. The problem is that 3-way
arrangements require more complicated crossovers. Midbases are most commonly mounted in the
doors.
Subwoofers - Subwoofers add lower frequencies to the system. They have
to be enclosed in a box, with the exception of free air subwoofers, which use the trunk as an
enclosure. There are many different types of boxes and implementations discussed in the "subwoofers"
section.
Mounting Locations
Front Speakers - The best place to mount speakers in the front, in custom kick
panels. By doing this, the path between the speakers and ears is minimized giving the best possible
sound without having to add time delay circuitry. If this is not possible, try to point the speakers
towards the center of the car, and try to minimize the distance between the right and left speakers to your
ears. Custom kick panels are usually built from fiberglass or molded plastic, and are available from
some manufacturers such as Ai Research.
Rear Speakers - Rear speakers should give a sense of space to the music, but
not overpower the front speakers. You should be able to barely hear the rear speakers. If you are
using rear speakers to add more bass/midbass to the system, at least use a crossover to cut off higher
frequencies. A lot of hi-end systems don't even have any rear speakers. Tweeters are not
necessary for the rear, a set of coaxials will work good for rear fill.
Center Channels - Center channels consist of a midrange speaker (3 or 4 inch)
mounted in the middle of the dash (usually) on the top. Center channels play a mono (Left +
Right) signal between 350 - 500 and 3500 Hertz (voice range). The purpose of the center channel is to raise
the sound stage, by creating the sensation of the singers "being" in the front of the car, and not in the
door panels. Center channels are hard to implement: First, a bandpass crossover is needed. Left and
right channels have to be summed up. There are various commercially available center-channel processors
(many with built-in amplification). The volume level of the center channel should be lower than the
other speakers, since it is only supposed to make subtle changes to the total sound image.
Sizes and Shapes
There are many speaker sizes ranging from 1-inch tweeters to 18-inch (or
bigger) subwoofers. A smaller speaker will reproduce higher frequencies better than a bigger one.
The wavelength of a 20,000 Hz signal is very small, while the length of a lower (bass) note moving in the air
could be as big as 40 feet. That explains why a 4-inch speaker can't really put out bass (the lower the
frequency, the more air mass that has to be moved by the speaker). Tweeters are designed to play
frequencies from 3500, 4500 or even 6000 Hz, all the way up to 20,000 Hertz. Midranges (3, 4 or 5
inchers) play music from around 300, 500 Hz, to where the tweeters start in the upper level. Midbases
(5, 6, 8 inches) play from around 50 Hz to 500 (and even 1000) Hz. Subs handle frequencies below 120-60
Hertz.
Do round speakers sound better than oval-shaped speakers (i.e. 6x9's)?
The answer is yes for most practical purposes. A round cone is more rigid than an oval-shaped one, so at
higher levels, an oval-shaped speaker will distort more. The reason why there are oval-shaped
speakers is because of rear deck space considerations by manufacturers. An advantage of a 6x9 speaker
over a 6-inch speaker is that it has a bigger area, so it will move higher air volume, producing more
bass.
Power Considerations
Most people think that if they use a 50 watt per channel amplifier on their
factory speakers, the speakers will be damaged. This may be true if the speakers do not have crossovers
blocking off frequencies speakers were not designed to play. What destroys speakers is
distortion. If you turn the volume all the way up on the radio, there will be distortion. If you
start hearing distortion, turn the volume down. A high power amplifier allows the volume in the system
to be higher, while the volume control on the radio is down in the range where no distortion is
present. It is better to have more power than what you need to get cleaner sound.
So how much power do you really need? As much as you can afford.
At a minimum, 30 to 50 Watts (each) would be OK for your front and rear speakers, while a little bit more
(100-150 Watts) should be applied to each sub. If you are powering up your tweeters independently, they
require less power (20 - 40 Watts). Example: A four-channel set-up with separates in the front and coaxials
in the rear with two subs will need about 40 Watts on each channel (Total=160W), and 100W going into each sub
(Total=200W). Notice that total power going to subs is more than total power going to the rest of the
speakers. This is because our ears are less sensitive to bass.
|